Yesterday we went swimming in the largest surf waves ever. We swam out severely far so we could dive right into them. Unfortunately, you had to catch these monsters at the precise right time, before they could break over you and blend you up. Therefore you had to catch them at the split second before they broke.
Alas, tragedy struck. I missed my moment and I got tossed around like a little rag doll, scraped against the sand, flipping over and over until I hit shallow waters and could breathe. I stood up, terrifyingly sore, only to be swept underneath another wave I didn’t see.
I have warrior scars. A bloody stomach and sand burn on my legs and arms. Boo yea. I’d do it again.